Passionate about history, I head to Tabuk, a city that has a few historical sites. The Hejaz Railway is a legendary line that once connected Medina to Damascus. It was marked by major events, such as the Arab Revolt during World War I. This was when the famous Lawrence of Arabia and the Bedouins fought for Arab independence against the Ottoman Empire, which at the time controlled much of the Arabian Peninsula, including the Hejaz.
So, why visit the Hejaz Railway? Because it’s not just a ruins. It’s a way to dive into the history of the Arabian Peninsula and better understand the stories that shaped this region.
A line for Pilgrims
Pilgrims travels to Mecca to perform the Hajj, an essential pilgrimage for every Muslim. Before the construction of the railway, it was a long and arduous journey. The only way for pilgrims to reach Mecca was a 40-day overland journey from Damascus to Mecca! The Hejaz Railway was built by the Ottoman Empire between 1900 and 1908. While its main purpose was to facilitate the transport of pilgrims to the holy sites. It was also used as a strategic route for the Ottoman military supply lines in the region.
Lawrence of Arabia
Lawrence of Arabia was a British officer who helped Arab forces revolt against the Ottoman Empire. Who hasn’t heard of the famous 1962 film Lawrence of Arabia? A classic of cinema, it portrays his life in the desert. Lawrence is played by Alec Guinness, known for The Bridge on the River Kwai & Star Wars. Lawrence and the Arab forces targeted the Hejaz Railway as part of their strategy. It was a powerful message and a symbol of the Ottoman Empire’s decline in the Arabian Peninsula.
For my day off, I leave NEOM for the city of Tabuk early in the morning. The drive is long: with the construction work, it takes me almost 2 hours to reach Tabuk. The landscapes are stunning at this time of day.
The sunset really enhances the colours of the sand. It’s typical of the red-orange of the Hisma Desert and is explained by the presence of iron oxide coating the grains of sand.
Visiting the museum
The Hejaz Railway Museum is housed in a former station. It tells the story of its construction, its role in transporting pilgrims, and its military significance for the Empire.
The museum displays several documents and photographs from the era. Fortunately, an English translation is also available. The second picture shows a train going through the Al Ahkdar tunnel. This tunnel is explored later in the article. The forth picture shows the stations between Tabuk and Al Hier.
The ruins of the Hejaz Railway
The romanticised story of Lawrence of Arabia inspired me to search for the ruins of the famous railway. It was while exploring satellite maps that I seen the remnants of the Hejaz Railway. Given their historical significance, I expected access to be restricted.
Construction
The construction of the Hejaz Railway took 8 years. The section between Tabuk and Medina was particularly challenging due to the terrain. This led to the construction of numerous bridges along the route, including the 143-meter bridge spanning Wadi Al Akhdar, which is the longest bridge located in Saudi Arabia’s part.
Al Ahkdar tunnel
Although not particularly impressive on its own, this tunnel is a historic site, and I’m sure that efforts will be made in the near future to preserve these ruins. The tunnel is located about 60 kilometres south of Tabuk. It’s best to have an off road car because the route involves driving in the sand. Given the number of car tracks around the area, it shows that many people park directly at the entrance.
The tunnel is over 100 years old and still standing. However it has no apparent renovation. It is 100 metres long and is the only tunnel on the Hejaz Railway line. It is too narrow to drive through, but as I write this article, it is possible to park in front of its arched entrance and explore its interior on foot.
