Nestled in the heart of Saudi Arabia, about 200 kilometres west of the capital Riyadh, lies a treasure rich in history and authenticity: Ushaiger, a well-preserved village with significant heritage, offering a journey through the traditional architecture and ancestral culture of Saudi Arabia.
I went there in April with 2 friends during Ramada. It was really hot that day, so hot that we didn’t see anyone in the streets. Luckily, my hat and abaya saved me from sunburn.
As it was during Ramadan, the visit wasn’t easy. We couldn’t drink, so we had to pace ourselves and not overdo it to keep some energy for the evening. We ended the day in Diriyah, near Riyadh, at its historic Al-Turaif district, with its pedestrian lanes, cafés, restaurants, and shops.
An open-air museum
Ushaiger isn’t just about old stones and stories from the past. It’s usually a vibrant village.
You can enter some of the empty houses and climb the stairs to look at the surrounding oasis and agricultural fields. Even the buildings under renovation are accessible. However, be careful not to trip, as there are debris everywhere. I was surprised that nothing stopped us from exploring.
The village is much larger than I had thought. It is divided into different districts, with narrow alleyways taking us to another time.
The traditional architecture of Ushaiger
Ushaiger’s main feature is its well-preserved traditional architecture, which is continually being renovated. The buildings provide a glimpse into life in historical Saudi Arabia. The well-renovated houses with their finely carved doors highlight Najdi architecture
When I think of Najdi architecture, the first thing that comes to mind is the colours. The buildings often have this earthy brown hue, made from mud bricks. They harmoniously contrast with the green of the palm trees and the blue of the sky. For me, it is this colour palette that makes Najdi architecture so special and so well suited to its environment.
Thick mud walls help keep the interiors cool during hot days and retain warmth during cool nights. It’s as if the inhabitants had found the perfect way to live comfortably in harmony with their environment.
Despite the heat, we took our time to explore and stroll through the winding streets of Ushaiger village. I felt privileged to be able to discover this charming little village without the crowds.
Al Salem museum
After wandering through the charmingly renovated streets of Ushaiger, we sought some shade and visited the Al Salem Museum. This museum houses items and trinkets from all around the world, most of which have been gifted by ambassadors over the years. There is a wide variety of exhibits, including clothing, jewelry, ceramics, and weapons…
The reason I recommend visiting is because of the person who runs the museum. With him, every trinket has a juicy anecdote, and even the most inanimate objects seem ready to tell their story. If I had known, I would have brought an object with me. I’m sure he would have spun a great tale about it. To top it off, the placement of these objects often makes no sense, like a pufferfish next to hairpins and firearms…
A preserved future: the conservation of Ushaiger
In recognition of its cultural and historical significance, Ushaiger has been designated as a protected heritage village. Conservation and restoration efforts have been undertaken to preserve the village’s architecture and character.
Getting to Ushaiger heritage village from Riyadh
It is possible to organise a day trip from Riyadh. As my friend owns a car, we decided to drive ourselves to enjoy more freedom. Ushaiger makes for a day trip, as it takes at least 2.5 hours to reach the village. Once there, I recommend allocating at least 2 hours.
To end our visit to Ushaiger, we then took the nearby mountain road to enjoy the golden sunset and view the sprawling village below.
